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'Tis the season to start building a timepiece collection.
From TikTok accounts dissecting celebrity watches to popular women-focused Instagram accounts like Dimepiece and Girls O’ Clock, the luxury watch universe—an often traditional and male-dominated industry—got cooler and younger over the past few years. And with this boom, the investment opportunities in the luxury watch space have only grown.
For starters, it’s a market that’s valued at $72 billion in 2024 and is expected to grow by 4% year-over-year by 2029, according to Statista. The women’s watch market alone was estimated to be worth $23.7 billion in 2019, according to the 2023 Swiss Watcher report, and is projected to grow to over $26 billion by 2027. And much of that growth is owed to the secondhand market: Sales for classic pre-owned watches on Fashionphile, for example, have grown by 60% over the past year.
“The craftsmanship and timeless designs of these watches also play a big part in their lasting value,” Kim Bickle, site merchandising manager at Fashionphile, tells InStyle. “High-end watches are made to last, and their appeal doesn’t fade with trends—making them wearable heirlooms.” The secondhand luxury platform recently revealed its 2024 Ultra-Luxury Resale report, which made clear just how popular luxury watches are right now: Searches for Cartier watches on the site have risen by 104% over the past year, while TAG Heuer—a brand heavily involved in the current Formula 1 racing boom—was up by 278%.
“We’re seeing smaller case sizes, with a lot of brands going for more refined, elegant designs,” says Bickle. “More bold dials are also trending like this Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, with colorful or gemstone details, alongside vintage-inspired pieces and minimalist styles for that timeless, classic feel.”
With price tags well above the four figures, it can be intimidating (and pricey!) to grasp where to get your start in the world of watches. Ahead, Bickle breaks down the five luxury watches worth your interest (and investment!), whether for yourself or someone on your list, in 2024 and beyond.
Cartier Tank Française
One of Cartier’s most distinguished models, Bickle calls the Tank Française her “favorite.” It’s not hard to gauge why: First introduced in 1996, it’s a bracelet model with a rectangular case, created under the brand’s Tank line, which also includes the Louis Cartier and Asymétrique. The Tank Française—a favorite of Princess Diana—features a narrower aspect ratio that distinguishes it from the rest of the Tank family and is available in a variety of materials, including yellow gold and steel.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
For women who like a classic, menswear-inspired look, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is a must-have. Bickle highlights it because of the model’s bold dial, which comes in a wide range of colors, materials, and finishes. A striking combination is the classic steel model with a black dial, for example. Although Rolex watches are on the pricier end, Bickle says that the brand has a track record of appreciating in value, along with other big watchmakers like Audemars Piguet and Patek Phillippe.
Bulgari Serpenti
Part bracelet, part watch, the Bulgari Serpenti watch is one of the industry’s most iconic designs. Bickle recommends investing in the Bulgari Serpenti watch because of its “distinctive snake-shaped bracelet, which is both elegant and eye-catching.” She adds that models that have rare details, like this one, are valued highly by collectors. “The Serpenti has seen significant appreciation in value over the years,” Bickle says.
Omega Constellation
Bickle highlights Omega as one of the brands with a high resale value, especially when it comes to models like the Constellation, a signature in the company’s lineup. “Limited-edition pieces seeing are notable appreciation thanks to the brand’s legacy and craftsmanship,” she says. With its timeless design and a wide assortment of colors and materials, the Constellation—first introduced in 1952—makes for an ideal timepiece to start building a watch collection.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Audemars Piguet is one of those watch brands that seem exclusive and out of reach, but Bickle says that’s precisely what makes their timepieces so investment-worthy. And the Royal Oak—first introduced in 1972 as a luxury sports watch—is the one model to go for, according to Bickle, because it’s “highly sought after due to the exclusivity and the brand’s enduring appeal.