Costume designer Marilyn Fitoussi told InStyle exactly what went into creating the series' buzzed-about fashion.
Without her clothes, Emily in Paris would just be, well, Emily. Throughout the now-four seasons of Netflix's hit show, its millions of fans have clearly become invested in the love triangles, fashion industry drama, and scenic European landscapes that Emily Cooper continues to find herself in. However, through all the PR crises and relationship turmoil, it's the way the characters are styled that puts this show in a world of its own. Not just another romantic-dramedy about a new girl in town. No. Because of the clothes, Emily in Paris has become Emily. in. Paris.
Who's behind the garments that turned the show into one of Netflix's biggest success stories? Marilyn Fitoussi. She jokes that she has "the impression that I work all my life in Emily in Paris."
Under the direction of legendary showrunner Darren Star—who has created some of the most iconic shows of the past few decades, including Sex and the City and Beverly Hills, 90210—Fitoussi wasn't tasked with making the show high fashion. Instead, she's in the business of creating identities and characters through clothes, regardless of whether or not they are name-brand or on-trend.
Fitoussi cites Star's game-changing Sex and the City as the reason for this decision. "When I was chosen for the show, I said to myself, I need to do [something] as iconic as 'Sex and the City.' I think the rule, number one, is to don't follow fashion. [That's] what is beautiful in Sex and the City, they weren't following the trend, the current trend." Instead, she looks to who the characters are and the scenes they are in to shape what they wear. Which (much like the show she hopes to build upon) has caused some controversy regarding the way its leading ladies dress.
"We never try to do fashion. We try to build an interesting character to look at. And it became iconic because people were angry to have something finally different, something to make them think different," says Fitoussi.
To get this reaction out of people, she started by analyzing what the trends are so she knows exactly what to avoid.
"When I'm looking at 400,000 look books and runways, it's because I want to know: What is the color, the shape, the trend of the moment? And avoid anything [where people] can say, 'oh, this is too '24.' " All in hopes that "in 10 years, kids will say, 'oh, Emily in Paris, the style was good. It's still hype. It's trendy. It's funny. We like that.' But I don't want them to say, 'oh, it's very old-dated, it's too '24.' " You know, much like all the Gen Zers still searching "Carrie Bradshaw Outfits" on TikTok.
Funny enough, despite being a "French native," she took little inspiration from the so-called cool girls of Paris when creating the fashion identities of Emily, Sylvie, Mindy, and Camille. That's because, well, when asked to describe Parisian style, Fitoussi had one word: "Boring."
"When I talk about 'boring,' it's because most Parisians now don't dress themselves anymore. For me, Parisian style has gone, definitely has gone. Now you can see people with a lot of hoodies, T-shirts, and sneakers, you know?" And even though Emily is, indeed, in Paris, you won't catch her wearing anything Fitoussi deems as boring. Partly because she finds the ubiquitous silhouettes a snooze. But, mostly, because "when you are not dressed like everybody else, you are not thinking like everybody else."