Image: Getty What's trending in skin care formulations right now?
Ingredient-led beauty NPD is showing no signs of slowing.
According to the trends and market intelligence firm Euromonitor, health and wellness is the primary driver for consumers’ rising interest in ingredient-led beauty. While social media has a large impact on which ingredients are most in demand.
In fact, 62% of UK adults claim to research ingredients when buying beauty and grooming products, says the market intelligence firm, Mintel.
Senior beauty and personal care analyst at Mintel, Maddie Malone, commented: “Trending ingredients greatly influence facial skin care users” and that those aged 25-34 were “more likely to choose a product if it contained trending ingredients on social media.”
We take a further look at six ingredients currently causing a buzz in the industry…
Ashwagandha
“Ashwagandha is emerging as a trending ingredient in facial skincare, valued for its antioxidant capabilities, which help to combat oxidative stress and protect the skin from environmental damage,” revealed Malone.
“The ingredient also offers anti-inflammatory properties, making it a go-to for treating concerns around ‘skin inflammaging,’ the trending notion of skin ageing being induced by chronic inflammation. The ingredient has become increasingly popular, with Ayurvedic skincare brand, Almora Botanica, teaming up with John Bell & Croyden to highlight the benefits of ingredients such as Ashwagandha through a face yoga-led pop-up earlier this year.”
Thanks to its calming properties, the restorative adaptogen has been utilised within many emerging skincare products designed for menopausal skin, such as Elemental Herbology Pause & Renew Gel Mask.
“Ashwagandha helps to reduce skin stress and inflammation supporting overall skin health,” discussed Carolyne Beck, MD at Elemental Herbology. “The cooling effect is calming for hot flushes and the hydrating benefits are comforting for dryness.”
Copper Peptides
Peptides are forecast to see the highest volume growth over 2022-2027, with Western Europe predicted to be a fast-growing region.
“Copper peptides have seen a 338% increase in Google search data between August 2020 and August 2024,” explained Malone.
“Despite being expensive to formulate with, the ingredient is trending in facial skin care, with brands such as NIOD leading with the ingredient. The brand adopts a tech-led approach to skin care, with its newly launched patented Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% reflective of these efforts. The new serum is bright blue in colour, making it social media-friendly, and representative of ‘product potency’.
According to NIOD, formulas containing copper peptide should be bright blue for it to be effective, with this messaging likely to resonate given consumers’ demand for effective skincare solutions.
Alt-Retinol
Despite retinol clocking up over 7.2bn views on TikTok, a growing number of consumers are exploring milder alternatives to the hero ingredient.
Alt-retinols aim to provide the same benefits as retinol, minus the common side effect of irritation that is experienced by many users.
An example of a brand investing in alt-retinol is Spa Ceylon. Its Skin Smooth Bakuchiol Day & Night Serum features the popular plant-based alternative to retinol.
“Milder by nature, bakuchiol provides similar benefits to retinol, such as promoting collagen production and reducing fine lines, but without the harsh side effects often associated with retinoids,” said Shenuka Fernando, director of skin care and beauty at Spa Ceylon.
“Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is safe to use in the sun and is also safe for use during pregnancy, making it a versatile ingredient for both day and night skincare routines.”
Ectoin
“Ectoin is another ingredient which is on-trend in skincare,” continued Malone.
“The ingredient benefits from growing conversations on social media, with positive sentiment underpinning these posts. Brands are increasingly innovating with the ingredient in facial skin care, thanks to its array of benefits including hydration, skin soothing, barrier repair and protection from external stressors.”
“Ectoin’s ability to work well with other popular skincare ingredients, like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, also enhances its appeal,” she said.
It’s a key ingredient in And Begin’s Serum in a Cream, which is part of the brand’s Age Renewal Skincare focused supporting the skin care needs of midlife women.
“Ectoin’s multitasking abilities make it the perfect choice for And Begin’s Age Renewal Skincare, as it addresses three key skin goals for this life stage — firmness, hydration and protection,” described And Begin’s consultant dermatologist, Dr Malvina Cunningham.
Turmeric
With roots in Ayurvedic practices, turmeric is an antioxidant which has seen a surge in popularity, with an average of 1.1k monthly searches, according to Spate.
Alongside potent anti-inflammatory properties, turmeric can reduce excess production of melanin which helps to brighten skin and is included within Kiehl’s Turmeric & Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Masque.
Upcycled
With sustainability predicted to influence the future popularity of trending ingredients, it’s no surprise to see upcycled ingredients within the latest formulations.
Eyeam’s vegan skin care line includes an award-winning extract upcycled from organic mandarins, Calmandarin. This ingredient is shown to combat ‘inflammaging’ by reducing pro-inflammatory factors and collagen destruction through gene expression.
Margo Marrone, Co-founder of Eyeam explained, “Calmandarin stood out because it ticked all of our checklist, in particular inflammaging, which is at the root of so many skin conditions.”