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Historically, it was believed that melanin-rich skin did not require sun protection due to the natural protection it offers against the sun's rays (Image: Getty) Sun protection is increasingly becoming an integral part of the skincare routines of those with melanin-rich skin. What’s happening in this innovative sector?
Despite a growing awareness among those with darker skin tones about the risks of not wearing sun protection, the myth that black skin is immune to sun damage persists.
A survey conducted by Nivea and Cancer Research UK reveals that 69% of Black British people don’t use sunscreen, and that even during the summer months, 63% do not use SPF on their face and body.
Historically, it was believed that melanin-rich skin did not require sun protection due to the natural protection it offers.
Indeed, melanin does absorb some UV rays and offers some degree of cellular protection. However, it has its limitations and cannot compete with specially formulated sun protection products designed to shield the skin from sunburn, skin damage, discolouration, fine lines, and serious health conditions like skin cancer.
Thanks to the wealth of information now available online, Black consumers have become empowered and are now keenly aware of exactly what they want from their sun protection products.
Aesthetician and founder of the award-winning Black Skin Directory, Dija Ayodele, has noticed a shift in attitudes towards sun care within her line of work.
She explained: “Black consumers are now more clued up on sunscreen use than ever. Our data tells us that the 35-50 age group is super curious and becoming more compliant. Those who are 50 plus can sometimes need more convincing, while Gen Alpha and Gen Z are totally on board.”
Brands have responded in kind and are now taking a more inclusive approach to sun protection. Here follows five noteworthy trends and innovations in the sun protection category, looking specifically at how brands cater towards those with darker skin tones:
1. Black-owned sun protection brands
The suncare market has seen the emergence of Black-owned sun protection brands that speak directly to the wants, needs, and concerns of Black consumers. These brands, often independently owned, include Black Girl Sunscreen, M Squared Skincare, and the soon-to-be-launched Beame.
Additionally, celebrity Black owned/co-owned brands like Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty and Venus Williams’ Eleven, offer skincare products with SPF ingredients.
Recognising that one of the major reasons some Black people shun sunscreen is the unsightly white cast some creams leave on the skin, Black-owned brands prioritise eliminating the issue – a pain point that mainstream brands may not necessarily consider.
Additionally, there is a commitment to serving the additional skin care needs of darker skin tones, for instance, incorporating naturally nourishers like jojoba and avocado oil into formulations – ingredients known for softening and soothing dark skin.
As consumer demand continues to rise for products catering to darker skin tones, we expect an uptick in Black-owned suncare brands that understand the unique needs of their target demographic. Major suncare brands will benefit from moving away from a ‘one size fits all’ approach and instead address the specific needs of different skin types.
2. Sunscreen oils
Body care is having its skincare moment, and this trend is naturally transferring to the sun protection sector. Recently, we’ve seen the emergence of alternative sun protection products like gels, balms, and oil-based formulations, which are proving popular with those with darker skin tones, due to their ability to absorb into the skin with ease.
Oils have always been a popular choice for dark skin tones, as they not only keep melanin-rich skin soft and supple, but also provide a protective barrier. Unlike traditional tanning oils used by those with fairer skin to achieve a golden-brown hue, we’re now seeing the emergence of sunscreen oils that solely operate to protect and give darker skin a desirable glow.
With Black TikTok content creators producing videos with titles such as ‘Black girl friendly sunscreen oil’ and ‘Dark skin friendly SPF body oil? I’m sold’, this is certainly a sector where growth is likely to occur.
As it currently stands, brands renowned for being inclusive and offering a broad spectrum of sun protection products, like Supergoop, Paula’s Choice, and Vichy, offer sunscreen oils as part of their product portfolio. Given the growing demand, there is ample opportunity for other brands to enter this space.
3. Holistic sun protection – skincare + wellness
Highlighting the harmful effects of the sun is crucial, but there are also significant benefits associated with sunlight, both mentally and physically.
Eniye Okah, founder and director of Beame, a new suncare brand aimed primarily at Black Millennial and Gen Z consumers, is keen to highlight the symbiotic relationship between the sun and wellbeing.
Eniye says: “With Beame, we want people to experience the mood-boosting benefits of the sun without damaging their skin. While our products are specially formulated for Black/Asian tones, ensuring they are free of the white cast often found in sunscreens, they are suitable for everyone. By combining sun protection with ingredients that support mood and skin health, we offer a holistic solution that promotes both physical and mental wellness.”
Given the current mental health crisis and the rising trend for wellness, brands have the opportunity to provide a more holistic approach to sun care, integrating both physical and mental well-being components.
4. Hybrid protection – suncare + skin care
There is now an expectation from consumers for beauty and skin care products to be multifunctional. Market intelligence company Mintel’s The Future of Suncare report describes this as the ‘sunification’ trend, reflecting consumers’ interest in embracing minimalistic beauty practices. This trend includes multi-benefit skin care and makeup products, such as tinted moisturisers with SPF and loose powder with sunscreen.
Brands like Supergoop have gained popularity among those with darker skin tones due to their range of tinted SPF products with darker shade options.
Similarly, British beauty brand Dr. PAWPAW has released a SPF sun cream that is proving popular on TikTok among content creators with darker skin tones.
“Our SPF’s popularity in this demographic is largely due to its clear, fast-absorbing formula that leaves skin naturally glowing without any oily residue or white cast”, explains Dr.PawPaw’s co-founder, Pauline Paterson.
“Furthermore, Dr. PawPaw has always been committed to offering multipurpose products that save time, space, money and even cut down on packaging waste. Customers are more interested than ever in simplified skin routines.”
5. Hair sunscreen
Black hair is typically fragile and susceptible to dryness and breakage, making hair sunscreen an emerging area of growth in the sun protection sector. Consumer trends company Spate reports over 10,000 monthly Google searches and a 13% year-on-year growth of the search term ‘hair sunscreen.’
Currently, most sun protection users focus on the face and skin, often neglecting the scalp. However, this is changing. Brands like Curlsmith and Aveda, known for serving the curly hair community, have produced hair sunscreen products to protect curls against the effects of heat and UV rays.
Similarly, sun protection brand Ultrasun has tapped into the need for scalp protection with its UV Mist Spray, an easily absorbed light mist that’s particularly suited to Black women who wear braids.
Ultimately, due to the consumer demand, the sun care industry is evolving at a rapid pace. As demand increases, we can expect to see even more innovation and inclusive products tailored to the black consumer who has historically been underserved in the sun protection sector.